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揭秘Shibori｜日本古老的印染技术如何做？

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揭秘Shibori｜日本古老的印染技术如何做？

2017-07-01 18:14

来源:

艺术生留学天空

原标题：揭秘Shibori｜日本古老的印染技术如何做？

Shibori（即日语：絞り），是日本最著名的古老靛蓝染色技术。

相比起中国的染色工艺，Shibori在西方，被更多人喜爱并熟知。

与传统染色工艺不同的是，它在染色前，就已经开始对布料进行物理的防染处理，包括捆扎、缝合、折叠、扭曲、夹、压等方法。每一种方式都能够在布的表面创造出漂亮而非凡的视觉设计。加上不同材质的面料特性和技法的不同，使Shibori染色具有无限可能的效果和未知的美感。

想要探究这些漂亮而独特的花纹是如何形成的并不难。

目前Shibori染色的技术有六种方式：分别是Kanoko，Miura，Kumo，Nui，Arashi，Itajime。

接下来我们将在这里为大家展示Arashi、Itajime这两种染色方法。

所需材料

Shibori染料（靛蓝）工具包

展开全文

亚麻、棉布

橡胶手套

剪刀

麻线

小木板

PVC管子

C形夹

适量的水和水桶

Arashi 处理方法

Arashi是一种杆状缠绕的印染技术。

首先，将布料围绕着PVC管子斜斜地包裹起来，当布料缠绕完，用麻绳在布料一端上打成死结。

打完结，把麻绳继续缠绕在布料上，经过6-7圈缠绕后，把布料挤到底部，然后把麻绳绑紧；需要注意的是，如果在挤压布料前就把麻绳绑得很紧，会很难移动布料并且难以控制。

继续缠绕，挤压和绑紧麻绳，直到所有的布料都被压紧为止，然后在布料的上方打结，之后剪去多余的绳子。

Itajime 处理方法

Itajime 是一种可以保持形状的染色技术。

首先，将布料如手风琴般错落地折叠起来。

再对折成正方形后，将布料的上下表面分别放上两片木板，或者其他的平面物（如硬纸板），用绳子捆绑好。

并放入C形夹中，固定。

开始靛蓝染色

在水桶里倒入适量的热水，把靛蓝染料及放进桶里后开始不停搅拌，直至均匀。

倒入苏打灰和还原剂，继续搅拌，防止氧化。待充分融合后，将染料放凉至一个小时左右，当看到染料表面有一层泡沫状的油亮面之后就表示染料已经制作完成。

放入浸过清水并挤干后的布料，开始染色，同时摇匀。

5分钟后拿出，经过几分钟的暴露，布料在空气中氧化，颜色会变成深蓝。

放置一夜之后，解开全部染过的布料，用剪刀剪去麻绳，去掉纸板，放入冷水中小心地清洗。

Arashi 摊开后

Itajime 摊开后

熨平并晾干

Shibori印染技术发展最鼎盛的时期是在日本的江户时代，因为当时日本下层阶级的人们被禁止穿着丝绸服装，于是，这种十分优美又廉价的印染技术就开始流行起来。现在，众多国际时尚设计师们也乐此不疲地尝试Shibori印染技术，将这一古老的传统，运用在各种的时尚单品和流行服饰中。

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What is Shibori? 7 Things to Know About Japanese Tie Dye

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What is Shibori? 7 Things to Know About Japanese Tie Dye

September 29, 2022

What is Shibori? 7 Things to Know About Japanese Tie Dyeby David McElhinney | CRAFT

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Nui Shibori Yukata, The Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

Simply put, shibori is Japan’s unique version of tie-dyeing. Considering its 1,300-year history, however, such a comparison does this richly traditioned craft a disservice. Shibori techniques have been iterated upon since their 8th-century introduction to Japan – particularly during the days of Edo – and remain an important cultural property today. This form of dyeing now appears on textiles of all description: the clothing of yesteryear, vintage artworks in genre-leading museums, sprucing up the upholstery on sofas and bed sets, or simply decorating towels, shawls and scarves. So, if that has piqued your interest, read on for all you need to know about shibori dyeing. 1. What is Shibori?

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Shibori is a Japanese manual resist dyeing technique used on textiles to creates patterns that spread unevenly across the fabric. The resulting patterns are often emblematic of Japan’s appreciation of the beauty of imperfection – known locally as wabi sabi – and are prized for their individuality and arresting beauty.

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Shibori Silk Vintage Haori Jacket, available at Japan Objects Store

Shibori, coming from the word shiboru (to wring or squeeze), is less about a singular technique and more about the approach to dyeing in relation to the textile being dyed. This may sound abstract – hardly a rarity in Japan’s cultural arts – but is based on the fact that there are innumerable ways to bind, stitch, fold, twist or compress cloth for shibori. This, of course, affects the appearance of the final product, as will the length of time for which the textile is exposed to the dye, not to mention the color of the dye itself. Silk, hemp and cotton tend to work well with shibori, whereas indigo has long been the favored organic dye of Japanese artisans. It is this harmony between the characteristic of the fabric, the color of the dye being used, the technique applied and the practitioner’s vision that is the essence of shibori. 2. What is the History of Shibori?

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Woman Making Shibori by Utagawa Kunisada, 1845

Tie-dyeing techniques have existed in cultures across the world for centuries, from the native tribes of the Peruvian Andes and the old kingdoms of Rajasthan, to ancient Middle Eastern cultures and Silk Road traders.The exact date when Japanese shibori was created is unknown, though there are examples of shibori-dyed items being used by the highest rungs of society as far back as the Nara period (AD 710 – 784). Emperor Shomu donated goods to Todai-ji – one of the Seven Great Temples still residing in Nara Prefecture today – upon its founding, one of which was a cloth dyed with a shibori technique.

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Nui Shibori Yukata, The Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

We also know that shibori arrived in Japan by way of China, and though its roots are now well over a millennium old, it didn’t enjoy mainstream appeal in Japan until the great cultural and artistic revolutions of the Edo period (1603 – 1868). Part of this was also down to necessity: cotton and silk were expensive, whereas hemp (a fibrous plant endemic to Japan) was a cheaper alternative. Furthermore, the lower classes were forbidden from wearing silk – if they could get their hands on it, that is – facilitating shibori’s growth in popularity as a method for renewing and reinvigorating old clothes.As time progressed, new variations of the technique came into being, and additional dyeing techniques like tsutsugaki, the art of creating patterns using rice paste, began to follow suit. 3. What is Shibori Used For?

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Shibori Silk Vintage Haori Jacket, available at Japan Objects Store

What shibori is used for will be down to the artisan in question. If the textile can be dyed, then shibori techniques can be applied. You may see it on clothes, such as kimono, yukata and haori jackets. Shibori also features on artworks; appearing in museums in Japan, such as the Kyoto Shibori Museum, and world-renowned museums abroad, including the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam.

Geta Sandals with Shibori Hanao Strap, available at Japan Objects Store

It might even appear on more prosaic items, such as handkerchiefs, furoshiki (multi-purpose wrapping towels), pillowcases and bags. Ultimately, the item on which shibori appears is less dictated by tradition than the application of the techniques. 4. How Does Shibori Differ From Other Dyes?

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Shibori is often compared – rightly or wrongly – to tie-dye, which was popularized in the West via the countercultural hippy movement of 1960s America. Shibori artists, however, use thread to isolate many small, repeated points on the fabric. This focus on the minutiae tends to create designs that are far more intricate and detailed than modern tie-dye.Tie-dyeing generally uses one more straightforward technique of twisting and tying the middle of the shirt to create a psychedelic spiral design, and while this tends to portray colors from the entire spectrum, more often than not shibori features only one color.

Shibori Silk Vintage Haori Jacket, available at Japan Objects Store

Ombre is another popular dyeing technique, used primarily to create color gradients on fabric. It’s much simpler technique for amateurs than shibori as it involves simply dipping the fabric into a container of dye – the length of time for which a section of the fabric is submerged in the dye will dictate the shade and richness of the color (i.e. the style of the ombre). 5. What are the Major Shibori Techniques

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Shibori Silk Vintage Kimono, available at Japan Objects Store

There are three major categories of shibori in Japan – kokechi (tied or bound resists), rokechi (wax resists), and kyokechi (clamped resists). To complicate things a little further, there are six major shibori techniques used in Japan, which generally fit within one of the three categories. We’ve outlined these techniques in brief below:Kumo Shibori, often translated as “spider tie-dye”, is the most conceptual of the techniques. The process involves tying sections of the fabric with fibers to create spider web-like designs. Shibori designers may also tie the fabric around miscellaneous items which offer resistance and contribute to the uniqueness of the final product. Miura Shibori uses the processes of looping and binding to create patterns that resemble rippling water (especially when indigo is used). A slightly more involved process, miura designers need to pluck pieces of the cloth with a hook and needle, while the degree to which it is bound will affect the shape of the design.Kanoko Shibori is the style that most closely resembles tie-dye. Like their Western counterparts, kanoko practitioners today often use elastic bands to tie the fabric, as opposed to the threads of fabric they would have used in the past. It is said to be one of the most approachable shibori techniques for beginners, yet allows for creativity and personalization when making the product.

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Shibori Silk Vintage Haori Jacket, available at Japan Objects Store

Arashi Shibori, referred to colloquially as pole wrapping shibori, is a process whereby artisans use wooden or copper poles to twist, wrap and bind the cloth. The outcome is typically a highly detailed diagonal pattern that resembles the veins of a leaf.

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Shibori Silk Vintage Kimono, available at Japan Objects Store

Nui Shibori is the most detailed of all the shibori techniques and is as much about stitching as it is about dyeing. By using hand-stitching techniques and wooden dowels to create resistance, the outcomes of this process are carefully crafted designs with accurate patterns. Because of the intricacy involved, nui shibori practitioners can depict a vast range of iconography, from flowers and geometric patters to sea creatures and impressionistic artworks. Itajime Shibori allows for the most robust patterns, by using wood, and in some cases, plastic clamped together to resist to the dye. The results tend to feature thick, bold patterns such as repeated two-dimensional shapes separated by contrasting shades of color. 6. Where are Shibori Products Made?

In Arimatsu, a town in Aichi Prefecture famous for its shibori legacy, the Suzusan label is an among the most popular. The eldest son of the Murase family’s fourth generation, Hiroyuki Murase, is one of shibori’s most progressive figures. First founding Suzusan as a design company in Düsseldorf, where he combined the family’s legacy with a more modern vision, Hiroyuki’s clothing label has become emblematic of the adaptations necessary to keep Japan’s traditional arts alive. The Suzusan label produces modern clothing, alongside rustic homeware like cushion covers and throws, which harken back to the traditional ways of Japanese life: a simplicity that is bound by its connection to and appreciation of nature.

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The first port of call for anyone interested in shibori is the aforementioned Kyoto Shibori Museum. First opened in 2010, it celebrates the works of local artisans stretching back to the 1940s. Located nearby Kyoto’s Nijo Castle, the museum hosts permanent and temporary exhibits that cover all facets of the textile world, with the eponymous shibori taking centre stage.

Tokyo museums, especially those focusing on traditional arts and crafts will host occasional shibori exhibits, but in the lush mountain-crowned town of Ome on the western outskirts is where you’ll find the capital’s finest shibori workshop. Kosoen, a studio dedicated to indigo dyeing, showcases garments styled using shibori techniques and sells a wide selection of textiles for visitors to take home. 7. Where Can I Buy Shibori Clothes?

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Shibori Silk Vintage Haori Jacket, available at Japan Objects Store

One of the most popular uses for shibori is in haori jackets, traditional silk garments worn over kimono. To find out more, head over to our purchasing guide, Haori: How to Choose the Best Japanese Jackets, or check out the vintage jacket collection at the Japan Objects Store. If you’re looking to buy shibori products while you’re in Tokyo, you can also check out our guide on Where to Buy Fabrics in Tokyo.

September 30, 2022 | Craft, Fashion

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塑形抗蚀扎染(shibori)在日本已有 1000 多年的历史，曾贵为宫廷服饰上的图案。它也被称为鹿子绞 (kanoko shibori)，或字面意义上的“小鹿斑点扎染”，因为它与年轻小鹿身上的斑点相似。

从室町时代 (1333-1568) 到江户时代初期 (1600-1868)，tsujigahana 式样的染色非常流行，但到了江户时代中期，鹿子绞迎来了黄金时代。从那以后，扎染工匠的技艺便一代代地传承至今。

鹿子绞又分为 hitta shibori 和 hitome shibori 两种技艺，没有任何一种染色法像它们一样精细和准确，或者具有如此独特的立体感效果。每种技术都有其各自特质组合来呈现丰富的设计样式。鹿子绞用于在各种和服面料、腰带和其他产品（包括壁挂和各种室内装饰品）中制作图案。

特征

采用 Shibori 和 Hitome Shibori 方法（鹿子绞的两种技巧）的绑扎技术可实现非常精致的效果。通过这种绑扎产生的独特三维效果，是其他扎染技术无可比拟的美感。此外，在结合不同技术所产生的样式中，每种单独的绑扎技术所具有的表现力得到进一步增强。

制作方法

在织物上直接绘制粗略的草图，然后由具有每种技术专门知识的工匠将其绑扎在一起。接着进行 oke-shibori 和 boshi-shibori（用于多色染色的抗蚀剂染色技法），然后浸入染料对织物进行染色。将织物晾干并移除线。最后，将织物蒸干并拉幅。

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is to preserve and revitalize Japanese shibori and other heritage textile techniques across the globe through education and community engagement.We present our workshops and events at Slow Fiber Studios (SFS).

Our work at World Shibori Network (WSN) is to preserve and revitalize Japanese shibori and other heritage textile techniques across the globe through education and community engagement.

We present our workshops and events at Slow Fiber Studios (SFS).

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The Craft Atlas » Crafts » Dyeing » Shibori

Shibori

Dyeing

Summary

Shibori is a Japanese manual resist dyeing technique, which produces patterns on fabric.

In Japan, the earliest known example of cloth dyed with a shibori technique dates from the 8th century; it is among the goods donated by the Emperor Shōmu to the Tōdai-ji inNara.

Until the 20th century, not many fabrics and dyes were in widespread use in Japan. The main fabrics were silk and hemp, and later cotton. The main dye was indigo and, to a lesser extent, madder and purple root. Shibori and other textile arts, such as tsutsugaki, were applied to all of these fabrics and dyes.

There are an infinite number of ways one can bind, stitch, fold, twist, or compress cloth for shibori, and each way results in very different patterns. Each method is used to achieve a certain result, but each method is also used to work in harmony with the type of cloth used. Therefore, the technique used in shibori depends not only on the desired pattern, but the characteristics of the cloth being dyed. Also, different techniques can be used in conjunction with one another to achieve even more elaborate results.

What does Shibori look like?

Discover Shibori crafts from The Craft Atlas and other digital collections in the image gallery.

By Saimon2000bd (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

CC-BY-SA-NC Some rights reserved by alsokaizen

Technique

How is Shibori done?

Kanoko shibori

Kanoko shibori is what is commonly thought of in the West as tie-dye. It involves binding certain sections of the cloth to achieve the desired pattern. Traditional shibori requires the use of thread for binding. The pattern achieved depends on how tightly the cloth is bound and where the cloth is bound. If random sections of the cloth are bound, the result will be a pattern of random circles. If the cloth is first folded then bound, the resulting circles will be in a pattern depending on the fold used.

Miura shibori

Miura shibori is also known as looped binding. It involves taking a hooked needle and plucking sections of the cloth. Then a thread is looped around each section twice. The thread is not knotted; tension is the only thing that holds the sections in place. The resulting dyed cloth is a water-like design. Because no knot is used, miura shibori is very easy to bind and unbind. Therefore, this technique is very often used.

Kumo shibori

Kumo shibori is a pleated and bound resist. This technique involves pleating sections of the cloth very finely and evenly. Then the cloth is bound in very close sections. The result is a very specific spider-like design. This technique is very precise to produce this specific design.

Nui shibori

Nui shibori includes stitched shibori. A simple running stitch is used on the cloth then pulled tight to gather the cloth. The thread must be pulled very tight to work, and a wooden dowel must often be used to pull it tight enough. Each thread is secured by knotting before being dyed.

This technique allows for greater control of the pattern and greater variety of pattern, but it is much more time consuming.

Arashi shibori

Arashi shibori is also known as pole-wrapping shibori. The cloth is wrapped on a diagonal around a pole. Then the cloth is very tightly bound by wrapping thread up and down the pole. Next, the cloth is scrunched on the pole. The result is a pleated cloth with a design on a diagonal. "Arashi" is the Japanese word for storm. The patterns are always on a diagonal in arashi shibori which suggest the driving rain of a heavy storm.

Itajime shibori

Itajime shibori is a shaped-resist technique. Traditionally, the cloth is sandwiched between two pieces of wood, which are held in place with string. More modern textile artists can be found using shapes cut from acrylic or plexiglass and holding the shapes with C-clamps. The shapes prevent the dye from penetrating the fabric they cover.

Where does Shibori come from?

Shibori is a craft from

Japan

Infobox

Materials indigo

madder

purple root

Sources

Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada, Mary Kellogg Rice, and Jane Barton. Shibori: the inventive art of Japanese shaped resist dyeing. Tokyo: Kodansha International, 1983.

Shibori for Textile Artists, Janice Gunner, 128 pages. Kodansha USA; 2010, ISBN 978-1568363806

Elfriede Moller. Shibori: The Art of Fabric Folding, Pleating and Dyeing. 64 pages, ScreenPress Books (1999). ISBN 978-0855328955

This article uses material from the Wikipedia article Shibori, which is released under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.

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What Is Shibori? How the Textile Is Made

Is Shibori? How the Textile Is MadeSearchSubscribeDesign InspirationRoom IdeasHow to RenovateLifestyleEntertainingShopping GuidesAll NewsAll VideosNewsletterFollowAbout UsPromotionsOther EditionsPrivacy NoticeTerms Of UseSkip to ContentDecorateRoomsGardeningShoppingLifestyleSubscribesign inBest Landscaping IdeasTop Reclining Sectionals25 Best Indoor Plants50+ Living Room ColorsBathroom Remodel DesignsDesign InspirationThe Art of Shibori, a Traditional Japanese Dye TechniqueThe Art of Shibori, a Traditional Japanese Dye TechniqueThe Japanese craft produces beautiful textiles.By Stefanie WaldekPublished: Oct 8, 2020Save ArticleYaorusheng//Getty ImagesResist-dyeing comes in many forms, from Indonesia’s wax-driven batik to the American tradition of tie-dye. In Japan, the prevailing resist-dyeing method is called shibori, which means “to wring” or “to squeeze.” As with all forms of resist-dyeing, patterns are added to raw fabric that is altered to resist the dye, thus leaving behind the natural fibers—in the case of shibori, this can be accomplished via a variety of techniques. Though the craft is hundreds of years old, it’s still popular today in markets around the world.The History of ShiboriThough shibori is known as a Japanese craft, the method can actually be traced back to fifth-century China. (There was also a similar technique of dyeing used in sixth-century Peru, too.) The earliest examples from Japan that exist today are from the eighth century—shibori dyed cloth was discovered at the Todai-ji Temple in Nara, having been placed there as a gift from Emperor Shomu.The peak of shibori production, however, did not occur until much later, during the 17th through the 19th centuries, or the Edo period. At that time, only the elite classes of society were permitted to wear silk, so the lower classes turned to highly decorative shibori textiles for their clothing.Yaorusheng//Getty ImagesShibori TechniquesShibori actually encompasses quite a number of different resist-dyeing techniques. Among them are the following:Kanoko shibori: Like tie-dye, this method utilizes elastic bands to bind cloth tightly before dyeing, creating an organic-looking pattern.Miura shibori: In this style of dyeing, practitioners pinch small sections of fabric and loop thread around them to create a repeated pattern.Arashi shibori: Afabric is tightly wound around a pole, tied into place with thread, and scrunched to create a pattern. The result is a diagonal, linear pattern.Kumo shibori: Small found objects like pebbles are bound with thread into fabric in this technique, which ultimately creates circular, web-like patterns.Nui shibori: This intricate method uses stitching to create precise cinched patterns in fabric; the stitching is removed after dyeing.Itajime shibori: Rather than using binding and cinching to create patterns, this technique employs the use of shaped blocks (traditionally of wood, though sometimes of plastic) between which folded fabric is sandwiched.Shibori CharacteristicsThere are several characteristics that differentiate shibori from American tie-dye, namely that the pattern is typically much more elaborate. Additionally, while shibori textiles can come in any color, they’re most often single-hued, with indigo being the traditional dye used.The InsideShibori in Contemporary DecorThe textile technique was originally used for clothing, and that trend continued from the late 19th into the early 20th century, when European and American cultures became fascinated with Japanese arts and crafts. Even in the contemporary day, you can find clothing made from shibori textiles, but the craft has also made its way into the realm of home decor, from curtains to throws to pillows.Follow House Beautiful on Instagram.Watch Next Advertisement - Continue Reading BelowDesign InspirationInside Keltie Knight's Personal SpaceHow to Install a Real Penny FloorHow to Design With Color If You Can't See ItThis Home Is a Master Class in the Art of LightingAdvertisement - Continue Reading BelowInside Leonardo DiCaprio's Real Estate Portfolio3 Huge Ways to Save on Interior Design ServicesWhere Interior Designers Find Inspiration IRLHow 23 Designers Reinterpreted Palm Beach PrepAre You Ready for Circus Tent Chic?Bradley Cooper Has a Tub and Toilet in His BedroomA Designer's Maryland Home That Celebrates NatureThis Home Is Part English Cottage, Part Modern ArtAdvertisement - Continue Reading BelowNewsletterMedia KitPress RoomAbout UsContact UsCommunity GuidelinesAdvertise OnlineCustomer ServiceSubscribeOther Hearst SubscriptionsGive a GiftEvents & PromotionsGiveawaysShop at Dering HallFind a DesignerA Part of Hearst Digital MediaWe may earn commission from links on this page, but we only recommend products we back.©2024 Hearst Magazine Media, Inc. All Rights Reserved.Privacy NoticeCA Notice at CollectionYour CA Privacy Rights/Shine the LightDAA Industry Opt OutTerms of UseSite MapCookies Choi

6 Types of Shibori You Should Know - YouGoJapan

6 Types of Shibori You Should Know - YouGoJapanCultureArchitectureArt and SculptureFestivals and EventsGeishaReligion and BeliefsTheatreWorking in JapanJapanese etiquetteBooks & FilmsLifestyleFood and DrinkCuisine CultureDrinksRestaurantsSweetsInterestsGamesHobbiesJobsToysJapanese HistoryBusinessNet WorthJapanese HomesBathroomClothingDecorJapanese GardensKitchenWildlife and AnimalsSportsBaseballGolfJudoKendoPuroresuSumoTravelAirportsBicycleCarsRiversSightseeingTrainsPlaces to stay6 Types of Shibori You Should KnowAs an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchasesThe Japanese tie-dyeing technique shibori is a wonderful art form.The word itself comes from the verb shiboru, which means to squeeze, wring or press.Types of ShiboriThis fabric-dyeing technique has existed for thousands of years and there are many different types.In This Article – We’ll explore the history of shibori and talk about 6 types of shibori, which are the most recognized and practiced.Table of ContentsToggleShibori historyTypes of Shibori techniquesChoosing a technique1. Kanoko shibori2. Miura shibori3. Kumo shibori4. Nui shibori5. Arashi shibori6. Itajime shiboriUnderstanding the itajime shibori techniqueFinal thoughts on types of shiboriPosts You May LikeShibori historyThe history of shibori is often a matter for discussion as it is unclear where it originates.Of course, it’s believed to have originated in Japan and some of the earliest surviving shibori examples were certainly made here.The history of ShiboriHowever, there is debate as to whether Japan had the techniques needed to produce the fabrics that we often see in the earliest examples of shibori.In terms of written history, one of the earliest descriptions of shibori was in 238 BC:This written description was recorded in the Chronicles of the Clans of Wei, which is a Chinese document.The document talks about 200 yards of ‘spotted cloth’ that was gifted to the Emperor of the Wei dynasty.This spotted cloth could well be a description of the wax-resistant fabric decoration we see on shibori.The earliest examples of shibori fabric to have survived originated from the middle of the 8th century.They were donated by Emperor Shomu to the Todaj-ji Buddhist temple when he died in 756 BC.These earliest fabric fragments depict techniques that show wax resists, bound resists, and clamped and folded resists.However, it is known that some of these shibori examples were actually from China and not Japan.Chinese examples of this resist-dyeing (called jiao-xie in Chinese) date back much further to around 418 BC.Booking.com

Types of Shibori techniquesShibori is created in lots of different ways using different techniques.There are three general types of shibori techniques.Shibori techniquesThese include:Bound or tied resists called kokechiWax resists called rokechiFolded and clamped resists called kyokechi.Most types of shibori techniques belong to these categories but there are a number of technique varieties within these too.Trade Star Queen Size Shibori Bedsheet$49.99Discover the Trade Star Queen Size Shibori Bedsheet set, a handcrafted tie-dye indigo bed cover accompanied by two matching pillow covers. This set is designed for a queen-sized bed, with the bedsheet measuring 90″x108″. Elevate your bedroom decor with this distinctive tie-dye bedding collection in a rich indigo hue.Buy On AmazonWe earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you. Thanks!02/19/2024 01:08 am GMT Choosing a techniqueThe types of shibori used are usually determined by the dyestuff and the fabric type.With shibori, you need a fabric that is both easy to handle and pliant.In Fact – Some types of shibori are now impossible to recreate because the fabric that you need to produce them is no longer made.The shibori end results is often a large geometric or pictograph design like you’ll see on a shibori kimono, for example.Choose shibori techniqueSome people simply choose to display a shibori fabric on its own.Let’s look in more detail at the different types of shibori seen in Japan.1. Kanoko shiboriThis type of shibori is what people in the west would call “tie-dye.”It involves wrapping thread around particular sections of your fabric.In kanoko shibori, an untwisted thread called shike-ito is used to create your desired design.The end result will depend upon the tightness of the binding and where it is bound.If the cloth has random areas bound, the end result will look like circles scattered in random over the cloth.If it is folded initially, the pattern and resulting circles will depend upon how it was folded.2. Miura shiboriThis type of shibori is also called looped binding.To create this design, you need to use a hooked needle and pluck out areas of the fabric.After This – A thread will be looped twice around all of the sections. This thread isn’t knotted; what keeps the different sections in place is just tension.With the miura shibori technique, the end result looks a little like a water pattern.Since there are no knots in the thread used, it is easy to carry out this technique, which makes it very common.3. Kumo shiboriWith kumo shibori, you use a pleated resist that is bound.This shibori technique requires you to pleat sections of cloth evenly and finely. After this, the fabric is bound tightly in close sections.The end result produces a spider-like design. Of all the types of shibori, this take a little more patience and precision to create.4. Nui shiboriOf all the types of shibori, this is the only one that uses stitching.Having said that, it is not complicated. To make nui shibori, people use a straightforward running stitch that’s pulled in to gather up the cloth.This bit is the tricky part – the thread has to be pulled really tight for the technique to work.Many people resort to using wooden dowel to help them pull the thread tight enough.Unlike miura shibori, the thread used in nui shibori is knotted to secure the fabric before it is dyed.With This Technique – You have better pattern control, and you can vary the pattern more. However, it is extremely time-consuming.5. Arashi shiboriThis type of shibori is known as the pole-wrapping technique.As its name suggests, the fabric is wrapped diagonally around a pole. After this, thread is used to bind the cloth tightly to the pole all over its length.When tied and bound, the fabric is then scrunched up before it is dyed. The end result gives you a pleated fabric with a diagonal-facing design.In terms of etymology, arashi means ‘storm’ in Japanese.The idea behind the arashi shibori technique is that the diagonal pattern represents a heavy storm and its driving rain.6. Itajime shiboriFinally, the itajime shibori technique is a shaped-resist method.In the traditional way of working, the fabric will be sandwiched between wood planks on both sides.These will be held in place with a cord or string. Typically, you can expect the cloth to be folded at least once, but often more.This creates a pattern that repeats with resists throughout when the cloth is unfolded.Of all of the types of shibori, itajime shibori also has other intricacies in its traditions.One of the traditional itajime shibori forms is called beni itajime, which means ‘red safflower squeezed board.’ This is also known as kyo beni or beni ita.Fabric dyeing techniqueThese types of shibori were used in lining underlayers and often had patterns that were created with red safflower dye, hence the beni name.This technique was still being used in the early Showa period between 1926 and 1989.Production was centered in Kyoto as well as a town called Takasaki in the Gunma Prefecture. The latter is well-known for producing lightweight, fine silks.The last remaining dyeworks of the beni itajime shibori technique closed in 1932. These were located in Takasaki and were the Yoshimura dyeworks.Understanding the itajime shibori techniqueThis dyeing technique wasn’t understood properly until Masanao Arai and Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada looked into it in 2010.They researched beni itajime shibori using the archives of the Yoshimura dyeworks as well as the research group Takasaki-Beni-no Kai.Their research unearthed that the wooden boards used in the process had all of their sides covered in lacquer apart from the center.This was to resist the dye. Before being used, they were left soaking in water for two whole weeks. This is because if they were dry, they would distort the resist with their warping.Before the dyeing took place, the board faces would have a thin layer of starch paste applied to their faces. This would help the silk adhere to the surface.In the manufacture of the fabric, they used a low-quality, coarse silk.This is because it was better at taking up the dye and it could be layered easily.In Fact – The cloth would be folded an impressive eight times before being dyed. The folding technique used was the maki tatami method.The ideal cloth for the itajime shibori technique would not weigh above 100g for a piece measuring 9.1 x 15 inches (23 x 38 cm).With the fabric in place, the blocks were clamped tightly, before hot dye would be poured over.The block would be rotated to ensure all sides were dye. This process took three hours.Nowadays, lots of modern artists try to recreate the itajime shibori technique using plexiglass or acrylic and c-clamps instead of wooden boards and lacquer.Final thoughts on types of shiboriIt’s safe to say that all types of shibori are exquisite in their own right.Who knew that there were so many complex ways of creating such amazing patterns?What’s really interesting is just how recently the itajime shibori technique was still being used – and especially how much the details of the technique were kept under wraps until really recently!Posts You May LikeDo Men Wear Kimonos (Don’t Buy One Until You Read This)How to Put on HakamaWhat To Wear Under Yukata?7 Best Japanese Sunscreen Products You Can Buy Online5 Best Japanese Makeup Brushes for a Flawless Finish7 Benefits Of Tatami Mats You Should KnowThe Best Furoshiki Wrapping Cloths: Inspiration, Ideas & Cloths You Can BuyCool Tenugui Towels (10 Best Ones with Bold Japanese designs)Japanese Yukata Ideas & Inspiration (20 Creative Ideas)About the authorWritten byLouiseSearchSearch

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Shibori: Japan's centuries-old tie-dyeing technique

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Japanese Culture

Shibori: Japan’s centuries-old tie-dyeing technique

By Go! Go! Nihon Staff

28 Nov 2020

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Shibori is a Japanese tie-dyeing technique that has been used for centuries. Famous for its blue dye, shibori is the result of experimentation with more interesting approaches to textile production, rather than just colouring clothes and fabrics.

The term itself means to squeeze, ring or press. It’s about creating patterns on a piece of fabric by preparing it in a way that will resist the dye in certain areas.

Read on to learn more about this ancient dyeing technique.

What makes shibori different?

One of the seemingly defining elements of shibori that differentiates it from other similar techniques around the globe is the use of indigo as the dye. This is partly due to the prevalence of the Japanese indigo plant. But, it also links back to the period of Japanese history when fine garments were restricted to the upper classes. Indigo was one of the few bold colours that most people were allowed to wear.

This has continued through the history of the country. It’s still noticeable considering the items that are seen as traditionally Japanese around the world. The act of dyeing with indigo is known as aizome, but that’s a whole other world we could dive into!

Alongside embroidery, stencil painting and hand painting, shibori has traditionally been used on kimono and everyday clothing. It’s extremely versatile as the patterns created can be used for intricate, detailed kimono patterns, as well as larger, broader designs for everyday wear.

Read more about the kimono in our article on the history of Japan’s most famous garment.

Techniques

The technique that might be familiar to most in the west is just one type of shibori, kanoko shibori. There are actually several other varieties that yield different results. As with any natural dyeing technique, it’s best to use natural fibres as they’ll hold the dye best. This is why it’s traditionally been used on kimono and yukata, as the silk and cotton will hold the dye and be more vibrant.

Each of the techniques create different shapes and patterns ranging from large broad patterns to small intricate ones.

Miura shibori – Looped binding

This uses a hooked needle to take sections of the fabric. This is then looped around with the thread to create a small bunch. This creates hooped patterns similar to kanoko shibori.

Kumo shibori – Pleat and bind technique

This involves folding the fabric before binding sections very tightly to create an almost spider-like pattern.

Nui shibori – stitched shibori

To create varied, intricate patterns you can try nui shibori. This uses stitching rather than just binding. This allows you to ‘sew’ your pattern in place before pulling the thread tightly to bunch the fabric together for dyeing.

Arashi shibori – pole-wrapping

This requires another prop – a pole. The fabric is wrapped around the pole before it is bound and scrunched up the shaft of the pole. Creating a linear pattern it has been compared to rainfall hence the name of the technique (arashi means storm).

Itajime shibori – shape resistance

A slightly more unusual technique. To create shapes within the patterning, sections of wood are used on either side and clamped in place to prevent the dye from reaching those areas.

Shibori today

Today, the technique is still used in the Japanese fashion industry, both as a traditional technique and with modern takes. The next generation has started to make its mark on the history of indigo dyeing and shibori by applying it to new styles of clothing. They’re reviving the techniques with an artisanal approach and bringing unique items to boutiques and stores around the country.

Techniques like shibori are experiencing a resurgence as awareness around climate change intensifies and more people are reducing waste while prolonging the life-cycle of their items. The technique is well revered around the world and is just part of many trends to extend the life-cycle of an item of clothing by renewing and refreshing it with dye techniques.

Read more about other zero waste techniques used in Japan.

Try it yourself

There is certainly an art and craftsmanship element to shibori. But one of the reasons why the technique has endured over time comes down to its simpler techniques that can be used to easily add a unique twist on your clothes. So why not buy yourself a shibori kit and try it at home?

Or better yet, take it a step further and come on one of our Study Trips, where you can experience shibori for yourself in Japan.

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The Ancient Japanese Art of Shibori – Veritas Journal

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The Ancient Japanese Art of Shibori

June 21, 2019

by Elsa Lagerquist

As an artist, the textile world captivates me. Fabric is beautiful to look at, but it demands to be experienced not just by looking, but by touching. That is what truly excites me. It was three years ago when I discovered this passion in the dye lab at the Rhode Island School of Design. Over the course of six weeks I spent hours upon hours in the lab learning how to dye fabric. I felt free, messy, creative, and productive. Using my slightly stained and colorful hands to scrunch and fold and stir and dry and iron till I had yards of transformed cloth, I finally felt like something of an artist. And it was during that summer that I was exposed to Japanese shibori dyeing.

Even if you don’t know it by name, you have probably seen shibori-inspired creations before. The blue and white ‘watercolor-esque’ patterns have started to appear on everything from throw pillows to summer dresses. Shibori is trendy now, but it is an ancient art.

Shibori is one example of a process known as resist-dyeing, a traditional method of creating patterns with dye by somehow preventing dye from permeating the entire piece of fabric. When completed, a pattern in the color of the original fabric emerges against the background dye color itself.

The earliest existing examples of such fabric in Japan date back to 756 A.D. But possible references to resist-dyed cloth, some from other parts of Asia, appear in historical accounts from hundreds of years earlier. Some Japanese block prints actually depict different parts of the shibori process. In this print from the 1700s, you can see the blue fabrics hanging from the ceilings of the studios. (The blue of the cloth comes from indigo, one of the oldest and most significant natural dyes.) The pieces of cloth are even detailed with splashes and dots of various shades, suggesting the effects of resist-dyeing.

Narumi, Meibutsu Arimatsu Shibori

Unfortunately, the precise description and meaning of shibori gets lost in translation. What we know as tie-dye, for instance, looks like this Asian art and uses some of the same principles, but it is something of a degradation to put them in the same category. Shibori techniques go far beyond the use of simple rubber bands, and the complexity of the designs can be astounding. In Stitched Shibori, Jane Callendar writes:

Kosode with Design of Pines and Interlocking Squares, 18th century

“Crisp knife-edge folds in cotton, silks that float on a breath, the chameleon nature of man-made fibres; the unique characteristics of cloth are revealed through the manipulations of shibori. But how to properly define the process? The Japanese term shibori comes from the verb ‘shiboru,’ meaning to wring, squeeze or press. It could be interpreted as ‘compressed’ or ‘pressurized’ – a clumsy description might be that ‘fabric is compressed to block the dye.”

To begin, the cloth is stitched, bound, and twisted to create the desired design. Using rubber bands, wood blocks, clamps, beads, and thread, you can create an infinite number of patterns and shapes. The Japanese shibori tradition recognizes six distinct techniques: kanoko, miura, kumo, nui, arashi, and itajime shibori. Itajime is one of the more simple and quick methods as it requires folding the cloth and sandwiching it tightly between pieces of wood. Tie-dye is most related to kanoko, which involves pinching particular areas, especially to create circular patterns. My personal favorite is nui shibori. This technique is about creating designs by stitching and gathering, and it can feel like a bottomless pit of options. The final result depends on the spacing and length of the stitches and on whether or not the cloth is folded. It is possible to create any shape by stitching its outline and gathering.

Below is the progression of a stitched diamond design, which would fall into the nui and kumo categories as it involves stitching and binding with thread:

the nui shibori process

First, the diamond shapes are created on a fold. Then, the thread is gathered and wrapped around the fabric to “fill in” the shape more. The key is gathering the stitches or binding the fabric tightly enough so that the dye cannot get in. But water seems to have a mind of its own, so mastery is difficult and flexibility is required. The artist must understand how the water will most likely respond to the guidance given (in this case by thread, wood, and other materials), but must also be ready for a bit of a surprise at the end. The World Shibori Network website describes the charm and risks of this art: “The Japanese shibori dyer works in concert with the material, not in an effort to overcome its limitations. An element of the unexpected is always present. All the variables attendant upon shaping the cloth serve to remove some human control from the shibori process.”

The best shibori pieces often take hours and hours of work stitching and gathering; but after all of the preparation, the cloth is ready to take a dip. One unique feature of indigo is the chemical structure that causes it to change color when exposed to oxygen. The fabric turns a nice, bright green in the dye bath, and only turns blue when it is removed and spread out so that it comes into contact with air. Getting a deep indigo color requires multiple short dips and oxidation periods. The more dips, the darker the shade. Once the cloth finishes its final swim, the bindings are undone, the thread cut, and the cloth unfurled to reveal the final design (as above).

My professor in Rhode Island warned his class that summer that dyeing easily becomes addicting. The first time, I created my dye bath meticulously and thought carefully about how to manipulate the fabric, but before I knew it, I started reaching for any cloth in sight and tossing it into a pot of something. I have found dyeing to be exciting, adventurous, and, yes, even a little addicting. “Chance and accident,” as the World Shibori Network notes, “give life to the shibori process, and this contributes to its special magic.”

Interested in learning more or taking up shibori yourself? Follow the links below!

・The World Shibori Network

・Shibori: The Inventive Art of Japanese Shaped Resist Dyeing, by Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada

・Stiched Shibori, by Jane Callendar

Elsa Lagerquist grew up in Pittsburgh but has settled into Midwestern life. After studying literature and art at Hillsdale College, she moved to South Bend, IN to teach middle school girls. Elsa is an aspiring textile designer, but dabbles in all sorts of crafts from calligraphy to crocheting. She also loves to bake and can often be found in the kitchen whipping up a double-batch of cookies. Perhaps more than anything, Elsa looks forward to the day when she can walk out into her own backyard and return with arms full of beautiful, freshly-cut flowers. Visit www.elsakdesign.com to view her work or shop her collection of shibori scarves.

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